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WINE PRESS
ESSEX COUNTY WINE SOCIETY
April 11, 2010
1989 Bordeaux Recap
Our sold-out 1989 Bordeaux tasting on April 1st was a great success. Bob Erickson led us through three flights of wines from his cellar (supplemented with wines from the cellars of Gary Schwarz and Dennis Roland). All wines were decanted per the instructions of the chateaux (generally 1 – 2 hours in advance) and most showed very well. We had 3 corked wines (out of 27) – and provided back-up bottles in each case (unfortunately, in one case, the back-up bottle was also corked). All wines were served single blind.
The first flight, in order, was Chateau Beychevelle, Chateau Saint Pierre, and Chateau Pougeaux. The Pougeaux was voted wine of the flight (WOTF) with 24 votes, followed by the Saint Pierre (15) and the Beychevelle (14).
The second flight offered Meyney, Montrose, and Le Gay. The Le Gay took WOTF honors with 20 votes, followed closely by the Montrose (19) and the Meyney (14).
The third flight was from Pauillac: Pichon Lalande, Pichon Baron, and Lynch Bages. The Pichon Lalande (Comtesse) took WOTF in a runaway – with 35 votes. It was followed, distantly, by the Lynch Bages (12), with the Pichon Baron (5) bringing up the rear. The Pichon Lalande alse easily took Wine of the Night honors – with 28 votes. The closest rival was the Le Gay with 12 votes. Montrose (6), Pichon Baron (5), and Lynch Bages (5) also received votes for WOTN.
Next Event – Spring Dinner
Our final event of the season, on May 2nd will be our Spring Dinner at Scalini Fedeli in Chatham. This is another event that we expect will sell out. Please respond immediately to reserve your space, and in no case later than April 23rd.
Originally opened December of 1995, Scalini Chatham
is the second restaurant opened by chef Michael Cetrulo. The restaurant
was constructed inside of a 260-year-old New Jersey farmhouse. Its
interior features high vaulted ceilings, antique pine floors, and a sense
of style, which evokes a distinctly Tuscan feel.
In addition to some stationary hors d’oeuvres, we will enjoy passed plates of Shrimp Scampi and Portobello Milanese. The hors d’oeuvres will be accompanied by NV Duval Leroy Brut – a champagne the Society has had at several previous dinners. “A big, full-bodied bubbly, featuring graphite, toast, lemon and nut aromas and flavors. Balanced, with an assertive finish.” 93 points, Bruce Sanderson.
The first course will be roasted sweet corn and mascarpone crepe served with a champagne truffle sauce and jumbo lump crab meat. This course will be accompanied by the 1994 Kalin Cellars Chardonnay Cuvée W. “This wine, which comes from 60-year-old vines planted on gravelly soils from the old Wente clone, was bottled without filtration in 1995. Light gold in color with a stunning nose of honeyed citrus, candle wax, some caramelized oranges and nectarines, terrific acidity and a finish of a good 40+ seconds, this is old-style but remarkable Chardonnay made by an eccentric genius who continues to be uninfluenced by anything other than his own intriguing vision of high quality wine.” 94 points, Robert Parker.
The second course will be slow-braised rosemary and garlic lamb shank with ricotta gnocchi and spring vegetables. This will be served with 1999 Domaine des Rémizières Hermitage Cuvée Émilie. “[This wine] is a candidate for the "Hermitage of the vintage." About 70% of the grapes for this cuvee emerge from old vines located in L'Hermite (on the crown of the great dome of Hermitage) and the remainder from Les Rocoules. This extraordinarily intense offering boasts an opaque black/purple color (reminiscent of a cult Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa) as well as a sumptuous nose of sweet blackberry liqueur intermixed with espresso, licorice, tobacco, minerals, and toast. There is massive flavor concentration, multiple layers, full body, purity, and beautifully integrated acidity and tannin.” 96 points, Robert Parker.
And with the end of the lamb, leading into an appropriately matched cheese course we will have the 1990 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière. “This wine has always tasted superb. Still a dark purple/garnet color, it offers an exotic bouquet of roasted coffee, caramelized herbs, sweet cassis, blackberries, chocolate, and licorice. The explosive bouquet is followed by a low acid, full-bodied, chewy wine with sweet tannin and ripe, jammy fruit and glycerin.” 94 points, Robert Parker.
A dessert of biscotti and chocolate crunch will be accompanied by 1977 Dow Vintage Port. “Medium brick-red. Aromas of coffee, prune and milk chocolate. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with a licorice, berry, custard and cream character. Firm and racy. Long and delicious. Firm and beautiful.” 92 points, James Suckling.
Details of the Spring Dinner are as follows: Date: Sunday, May 2, 2010 Reception: 5:00 p.m. Dinner: 6:00 p.m. Attire: Smart casual Location: Scalini Fedeli
Address: 3 Main
Street Telephone: (973) 701-9200 Website: www.scalinifedeli.com
Cost: $110.00 members $130.00 non-members & guest Our next event will be our annual Fall Dinner in September, 2010. Have a great summer.De gustibus non disputandum est, Gil Bauer
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