Essex County Wine Society

WINE PRESS

                          ESSEX COUNTY WINE SOCIETY

September 9, 2008

We begin our 2008-2009 tasting season on October 2nd with a look at the white wines of Austria.  (The first event for the Essex County Wine Society, the Fall Dinner, will occur after this newsletter has been drafted and sent.)  This tasting should be both educational and highly enjoyable. Our guide for the region, member Henrietta Moore-Roland has spent significant time in the area and will provide first hand knowledge of many of the vineyards. Most of the wines are substantially dry, highly-rated, available in the U.S. and age-worthy. This is a great opportunity to discover some wonderful new wines for your cellar.

We will focus on the 2006 vintage, wines from the Wachau (an area which includes some of the best vineyards along the Danube), and both Riesling and Grüner Veltliner grapes. (which are typically vinified dry in Austria). We will also include some aged examples of each of these wines (12 – 15 years old) to get a sense of the effect of some cellar time – as well as at least one other location to contrast geography.

Henrietta has picked wines that have garnered high ratings in the wine press (of the 2006 wines almost all were rated 92 or better in the recent Wine Advocate) – but it is her own comments and enthusiasm that make me most excited about this tasting. She says, “These wines are so good I’m not sure I want to part with them.”

To  “wet your whistle” some highlights will include:

2006 F X Pichler Gruner Veltliner Smaragd M, (Schildnecht, 94) “…Wonderfully deep, with coffee, caramelized peach, tobacco, and an intensity of black raspberry that put one in mind of a red wine, this deals effortlessly with its 15% alcohol, finishing heat-free, with ample primary juiciness and with plenty of flavor nuance. I can’t recall when I tasted an “M” bottling as richly-satisfying and un-exaggerated as this. I would plan on following it for at least 7-9 years, recognizing that in a few years its cellar potential…will be more evident.”

But again, Henrietta’s comments may be more instructive than the professionals’: “This is FX Pichler’s ‘M’. ‘M’ stands for Monumental  and it is only produced in exceptional years. Oh, this is such a good wine, a challenge against any white burgundy.”

2006 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel (Schildnecht, 93+). “…revealed ripe apricot, narcissus floral notes, and fruit pit piquancy that led to a bitter-sweet, rich palate. This Riesling is impressively concentrated and compact, with wet stone and apricot kernel dominating a long if somewhat somber finish. It will be most interesting to follow, as it may well open up over the short run and should stand up to 8-10 years in the cellar.”

2006 Willi Brundlmayer Riesling Zobinger Heiligenstein Alte Reben (Schildnecht, 94) “Buddleia, freesia, and fennel pollen waft from the glass… In the mouth, I was surprised and thrilled by the sort of tingling brightness, delicacy, floral perfume, and finely-edge suggestions of minerals... Subtle creaminess of texture beautifully sets off the floral, mineral, and bittersweet herbal notes, leading to a subtly honeyed, soothing, persistently floral finish. And make no mistake, this will be even more ravishing in a few years’ time, and one could count on holding it for 10-12 years at least. Bravo!”

So, we have a great opportunity for learning and pleasure at this tasting. I hope to see you all there.

The cost for the tasting will be $71 – for members,  $85 -- for guests.

Members, if you have not yet sent in your dues for 2008-2009, please send an additional $85.

The tasting after this will be of Australian Shiraz led by Mahesh Lekkala and Stacey Rudbart on November 6, 2006.

De gustibus non disputandum est (There is no disputing matters of taste),

- Gil

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"What contemptible scoundrel stole the cork from my lunch?"

Larson E. Whipsnade (W.C. Fields) You Can’t Cheat an Honest Man (1939)

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